EXCLUSIVE: A butcher has weighed in on “one of the most pressing issues of our time” – what seasoning goes best with bacon sarnies. Share this article Share this article Facebook X LinkedIn Reddit Bluesky Email Copy link Link copied Bookmark Comments
It's one of the “great dividing debates” of our time, but which is truly better on a bacon sandwich—Heinz tomato ketchup or HP brown sauce? Long before Brexit split public opinion, another bitter dividing line had purists shifting to one side or the other in a debate that led to squabbles between families over breakfast. Of course, it was the age-old question of which iconic British condiment should be used first, especially when it comes to the classic bacon or sausage sarnie.
You're either on the “red” side, which typically refers to Heinz tomato ketchup, or the “brown” side, which refers to HP sauce. Both are quintessentially British and have been around for decades, but there's still no consensus on which is best for breakfast. Richard Turner, chef and co-founder of the country's first online butcher, Turner and George, is better placed to settle the debate by admitting he has a preference.
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“Ah, one of the great debates of our time,” Mr. Turner told the Express. “And there's really no definitive answer. Heinz tomato ketchup is one of humanity's greatest achievements, but HP bacon sauce is like nothing else.”
“I'd say HP sauce wins by a small margin!”
Some, including Mr. Turner, praised HP sauce for its distinctive flavor—a malt vinegar-based product with tomatoes, tamarind extract and spices that complements the rich flavor of bacon and sausage.
Its original recipe was developed in 1899 by Frederick Gibson Garton, a grocer from Nottingham, and the name “HP” reportedly came from the Houses of Parliament. The sauce was rumored to have been served in a government restaurant at the turn of the 20th century.
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Heinz ketchup as we know it today was developed in the United States in the early 19th century, but it was originally a fermented fish sauce brought home by British traders in the 17th and 18th centuries before new ingredients were added.
Its reputation as a kitchen staple has extended far beyond Britain – in other parts of the world, HP sauce enjoys less recognition and status, particularly in America, where a long-running advertising campaign once declared Heinz “America's favorite ketchup.”
While a number of studies into which sauce Brits prefer for sausage and bacon sandwiches have produced mixed results, a survey conducted by Fentimans last year found that your preference may depend on your age: people over 65 tend to prefer the savoury flavour of HP sauce, while younger people under 26 describe the condiment as 'old-fashioned'.
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