Cats are highly intelligent creatures. Sometimes it even seems like they understand human speech. In fact, this isn't entirely true—cats read their owner's tone and mood, although they can also remember the meaning of a few words, like their name or “eat.” Let's reiterate: cats, like small children, perceive not WHAT is said, but HOW it is said, so it's essential to be sincere with cats—if you want to be understood correctly, of course.
How to train a cat…
It's not difficult to teach a cat its name. Simply call it by name whenever you have a pleasant moment—petting, scratching, feeding. You can call the kitten, alternating between the traditional “kitty-kitty-kitty” and its name. There's just one thing MirSovetov recommends avoiding: calling the kitten just for fun, or worse, to punish it. The kitten needs to know that calling means something good will happen.
Toilet training is also easy. Sometimes it's enough to simply show them where it is. A more reliable method is to simply take the kitten to the designated spot after they've eaten. They'll likely quickly figure out where to do their business.
If your cat stubbornly refuses to settle in, you need to figure out what's bothering them. Perhaps it makes sense to move the litter box to a more secluded spot or change the type of litter.
When an adult cat begins to actively mark its territory, your strategy should change somewhat – it does so consciously, declaring its rights to the world. However, in a city apartment, this method is, to put it mildly, inappropriate. Constantly cleaning the area usually doesn't achieve anything – it marks even more persistently. If you poke the cat's face into the “mischief,” it may perceive this as “yes, this is your place, this is where you should mark” – and continue its smelly business.
But there is a solution: don't try to train your cat, which will fail, but understand your cat and act in its world, according to its rules. Not everyone marks their territory, only the owner, the dominant cat. So, you need to make it clear that you're taking on this role. So, when you catch your cat red-handed, grab it by the scruff of the neck (or ask someone else to help you). Feel like the “dominant cat,” stare into its eyes (according to cat law, the first one to look away loses), and hiss at it, just like cats hiss before a fight. Using your fingertips, imitate a cat's slap to the face (gently, but measure your force—after all, your cat is much weaker than you). Continue until the cat squeaks; as soon as it does, let go. Secure the victory immediately by washing off the cat's mark and marking it with your own. Of course, you don't have to use the cat method – just wipe it with a sweaty T-shirt or spray it with your favorite deodorant.
Cats, like children, don't like or particularly understand the word “no.” But you can still teach your cat to accept certain restrictions if you follow these rules:
– if something is not allowed, then it is not allowed from the very beginning, once and for all;
– cats have a fairly short memory, so scolding a cat for something it did more than half an hour ago is simply useless – it won’t understand you;
It's better to stop something in the process than to scold it later. And it's better if the cat doesn't realize you stopped it—then it won't do something forbidden, even if it's left alone at home. Cats don't like loud noises, so to stop a cat from doing something inappropriate (like chewing on a decorative flower), it's enough to throw a set of keys on the floor. Another suitable method is to spray the furry troublemaker with water.
When imposing restrictions, you need to understand why your cat is trying to do what you don't want them to do and give them the opportunity to satisfy their needs in an acceptable way. For example, create a special stand or at least provide a claw sharpening block for them. If they try to sharpen their claws in an inappropriate place, simply move them there.
Games, communication
A cat is a predator. It needs plenty of exercise. In the wild, cats run and jump a lot, hunting birds, mice, and moths. In a city apartment, they have no one to hunt, and aimless running around within familiar walls quickly becomes boring. Tie a rolled-up piece of newspaper to a string and drag it across the floor – the cat will try to catch it. It might simply chase, or it might even set an ambush. You can also fly airplanes low or roll a small ball across the floor – cats are interested in anything that moves.
You can play another way. When your cat is in a playful mood, gently roll it over onto its back and tickle its chest. It will grab your hand with its paws, maybe even its teeth, and begin to wrestle. If you think the cat is getting too carried away, or if you want to quickly end the game, simply relax your hand and don't move it. This will simply make the cat lose interest and let you go. If you simply try to pull your hand away, the cat will perceive this as just another part of the game.
Understanding a cat is fairly simple – their pantomime is usually quite expressive. MirSovetov believes it's useful to reiterate the gestures cats use to convey their mood. A high-raised tail, for example, is a greeting. If a cat nervously lashes its tail at its sides, it's agitated. A twirling or fluffed-up tail indicates a violent attack. A curled tail, or just the tip of the tail gently wiggling, indicates contentment. A cat communicates trust by nuzzling its muzzle into your hand. Irritation is signaled by flattening its ears.
Cat and other animals
A cat can get along with almost any pet, but the period of their acquaintance requires patience and understanding from the owners.
Whether you're bringing a cat into a home with existing pets or simply bringing another pet (or a small child—from a cat's perspective, they're the same thing), the first priority should be the older residents. They should be the first to be petted, fed, and so on. It's best if, at least initially, the animals' bowls are kept some distance apart, ideally so that one isn't visible from the other. If the animal is comparable in size to the cat, try to ensure they have nothing to share. If it's smaller, the cat's maternal instincts will likely kick in.
The first introduction should take place under your supervision. First, pet the established resident, then the newcomer. If neither is afraid, allow them to come closer and sniff each other. If the established resident is a female, MirSovetov may recommend pre-treating the newcomer so that it adopts your cat's scent, or at least yours—brushing it with a comb, for example, or wiping it with a sweaty T-shirt (or, for women, spraying it with your favorite deodorant). This will help the cat understand that the newcomer is a new member of your pack, and not prey.
It's clear that introducing a small child to a cat isn't possible this way. Adult cats are usually very tolerant of children's antics, and they can easily recognize a child's scent as a new member of the pack. However, cats can sometimes be very jealous. Try not to give your cat any reason to be jealous of your relationship with the child—make time to play, talk to her as you used to, brush her, etc. This will be beneficial for you too—communication with a cat is calming, and she seems to draw out negative energy.
Walks
To let your cat out or not? That's the owner's decision. Of course, it's easier and more peaceful not to let them out, but if you live in a quiet neighborhood, it's perfectly acceptable to let them roam. Avoid leash walks outright—they're not enjoyable for either you or the cat. It's better to simply train your cat how to go out and how to return. Don't put your cat in a “suitable walking area”—they should walk on their own paws, so they can easily find their way home. Generally, cats prefer to go for walks on their own, without their owners.
But you can still make the “free” part of your cat's life easier. First, buy her a flea collar. Besides its intended purpose, it will also let her know she's a domestic cat. It's a good idea to attach a tag with your address to it, in case she gets lost.
Decide how you'll let your cat out (and back in). It's easiest for first-floor residents—an open window and perhaps a couple of paw rests—that's enough. If the front door doesn't lock (meaning it's always open), you can train your cat to walk down the stairs to the courtyard on its own and meow at the door when it returns. Just don't carry the cat out in your arms—let it out on the landing and watch (of course, before training it to go outside, it needs to be accustomed to its name and its owners). When it's gone down a flight or two, call it inside and treat it with a treat. Gradually, let it out further and further. During the first few days of completely independent walks, MirSovetov recommends keeping the door slightly ajar—place something underneath it to prevent a draft from slamming it shut. Let your cat remember that her home is behind this door. You can even spray the outside of the door with your favorite deodorant.
How do you let a cat back in? Seeing the door closed, your cat will start scratching at the door and meowing. You need to let her in as quickly as possible (so she associates her actions with the door opening, but also to avoid conflict with neighbors) and pet her, rewarding her so she knows she's done the right thing. Some owners install a doorbell button downstairs specifically for cats and train them to press it with their paw.
And finally, a few unverified facts about domestic cats:
– If a cat sleeps curled up in a ball, it’s a sign of cold weather;
– If a cat, while washing itself, runs its paw over its ear, it's expecting guests. The side it runs on is the side from which the guests will come;
– It is believed that a three-colored cat protects the house from fire.
Take care of your cats, train them, and look after them, because when they live in our home, they become not only our smaller brothers, but also little members of the family for whom we are responsible.
